Dragon Linings & Power Suits:

Enchong Dee’s Sartorial Adventure with Hong Kong’s Empire Tailors

It all started when…

Suiting is sometimes presented as a one way street that leads to a tiringly familiar look. While the familiarity of mundane suits resonates with most people for a good reason, a distinct choice is always welcome. After all, the beauty of commissioning a bespoke suit or jacket is within the process itself, and not to mention the sheer range of styles, materials, and micro details one can opt for. 

Empire Tailors, a third generation Hong Kong tailor specializes exactly in these types of commissions. It was for this very reason that famed Filipino actor, athlete, and national heartthrob Enchong Dee reached out to Mark Asaf of Empire for his upcoming photoshoot with Friday Club Magazine. For his very first experience with bespoke tailoring, Enchong wanted to create something that truly reflected his character. After lengthy discussions with Mark, Enchong decided that 2 completely distinct looks would best capture his breadth of personality. 

First, Enchong chose an elegant broad chalk stripe flannel with a navy background, a very traditional choice of fabric from Italian mill Vitale Barberis Canonico. Flannel is known for its heavier weight and woolly texture and appearance, which accentuated the contrast between the white stripe and navy backdrop. With a wide stripe that was perfectly faint yet pronounced, Enchong’s choice projected confidence in a discrete and fashionable way. Mark recommended that a double breasted suit would be a great way to show off the eye-catching look of the flannel, in a traditional four button configuration and broader shoulders to compliment Enchong’s athletic physique. In addition, Empire’s signature touch would be the arduously hand-roped shoulder to bring the look together. Making the shoulder more roped broadens the chest and boldens the jacket’s overall silhouette, a feature Enchong found appealing and unique. As Enchong was after a power suit, the emphasized split between shoulders and sleeves was intended to create a firm and structured look, almost resembling a knight's armour. The most distinct detail of his jacket however, was the striking blue lining with a dragon print which he chose to commemorate his birth year of the dragon. The interior lining of a jacket is a very personal and intimate touch, a creative way to make it your own.

Second, Enchong wanted a summer look that felt easy going and comfortable, suitable for Manila’s blistering heat. He felt inclined to express a less formal and more laid back side of his persona. Mark explained that “linen blends with silk and wool feel effortless to wear” as he showed Enchong fabrics from Ermenegildo Zega’s latest “leisure wear” collection. Enchong gravitated towards the tones of cream and beige before settling on one with a subtle check pattern. Next, Mark recommended a personal favourite, Zegna’s blend of cashmere and cotton, otherwise known as “Cashco”. The unlikely blend yields the best of both worlds as the wearer feels the luxurious hand feel of cashmere, with the breathability of cotton. A solid white colour perfectly complemented Enchong’s beige jacket for a picturesque summer fit. Mark pointed out that the desire to wear a blazer with no tie and a contrasting set of trousers or jeans is a part of the recent ‘dress-down’ trend. Simply throwing on a jacket with a casual outfit is more appealing than ever, so long as it is well-fitted. 

The tailors at Empire immediately moved to preparing Enchong’s basted fitting. Cut by their head tailor Awai, the garments in their early stage were personally delivered to Enchong in Manila. During his first fitting in a suite at the Sheraton Manila Bay, Mark analyzed how the jacket laid on Enchong’s shoulders and chest in particular. He looked at certain areas to see what adjustments were needed so that the garments wear in a way that is uninterrupted by creasing, pulling or any unsightly flaws. As for the trousers, Enchong mentioned he wanted his white cashco trousers on the slimmer and shorter side, with the flannel ones being slightly longer and wider. It is common for people to style different looks with varying proportions, as there is no ‘one size fits all’ in Empire Tailor’s line of work. While measurements tell one side of the story, everyone’s physique and muscle mass react differently to a fabric’s drape. 

Feeling confident after the first fitting, Empire’s team of master tailors immediately got to work on completing Enchong’s attire in time for his photoshoot with Friday Club in Hong Kong. In anticipation for Enchong’s visit to Empire’s store to try on the finished garments, Mark prepared a pair of black box calf and brown karagrain penny loafers by Carmina, along with a knitted Viola Milano tie to complete the outfits. Mark was adamant on finding the right shoes, and the Carmina’s sculpted silhouette and subtle heel is an exquisite touch of style.

From a simple swatch of fabric, to a skeletal draft, and finally to a completed garment, seeing both looks in their final form at last was a sight to behold. It was simultaneously rewarding and a moment of relief for everyone who was involved in the process, from the team at Friday Club, to Enchong’s stylists, and the master tailors at Empire. 

There is no instant gratification in tailoring, so when a client feels confident and looks the part, it becomes worth all of the effort it took to reach the finishing line. Enchong’s first sartorial journey with a Hong Kong tailor was finally concluded. As he walked out of the fitting room at the Empire Tailors store, Mark asked him “how do you feel?” Enchong fastened the last button on his double breasted suit and said “like a million dollars”.